Monday, February 05, 2007
Voulez-vous coucher avec moi ce soir, says the bitter orange – Sexiest marmalade

Sometimes seducing a guy is a very easy task:
you think, you wink, you double blink -
dans la poche [easy peasy].
And other times it just isn’t; no matter how hard a girl tries, nothing happens.
Back in 1998, I remember this boy in my class whose hair definitely recalled
Son Gohan’s (as a Super Saiyan –
c’est evident).
It seemed he fancied anything but me; well he must have changed his mind.
Two years later, when I brought him a jar of some marmalade I had made I saw sparkles in his eyes.
I will never forget that day,
the day he fell in love with me.
See! All it needs to win a guy’s heart is a jar of marmalade.That day was now more than six years ago; though, whenever I try to play the
lovely-and-adoring-girlfriend and bring breakfast to bed, I can get two different faces: either the
as – grumpy – as – usual or the
I – love - you marmalade – so – much.
You’ll guess the latter is only found when a fat pot of marmalade is sitting on the tray.
Hopefully I can never run out of it. Indeed I’m a very lucky girl and have a beautiful bitter orange tree in my garden, which gives dozens of oranges every other year.
Bitter orangesThe oranges from my garden are slightly smaller than regular oranges and thus are perfect for jam making as the pith isn’t too big.
If making marmalade, you must use organic non treated oranges.
Even though my oranges are 100% organic I wash them to get rid of bugs or earth/sand traces.
How does marmalade solidify? – Pip is the wordWhat I really like about this marmalade is that you don’t have to use any extra pectin as the pips provide enough of this gelling substance.
Pectin is a molecule made of different groupings of polysaccharides (complex sugars) and allows the formation of a gel.
There are two types of pectins: HM and LM which indicates the degree of etherification of the molecule. The higher the etherification, the faster the gel will set.
Bitter orange’s pectin and more generally, citrus fruits’ pectin, is HM (High Methoxyl) and can only form a gel in presence of acid (orange) and sugar. What a lucky (and delicious) coincidence!

Here we enclose the pips in muslin bags and soak them in the orange/water mixture so they release their pectin.
Bitter orange marmalade
This is not really a recipe as the quantities of water and sugar are utterly dependent upon how many oranges you have.
What you have to remember is that you’ll need:
1,8kg of water for each kg of orange
1,3kg of caster sugar for each kg of the orange/water mixture
Then you all you have to do is follow the steps. Easy!
Note - the marmalade will look runny at first but will solidify when resting.
It’s quite unusual to let the jars sit, open until the jam is set, but it allows the gel to form evenly.
Note bis - I just love this marmalade spread on hot crusty bread!Note ter - Take in consideration the fact that this marmalade is made over three consecutive days.Sexiest bitter orange marmalade
organic bitter oranges
water
caster sugar
Wash the oranges, slice them as finely as possible and save the pips.
Enclose the pips in some muslin squares (fanny: I used 10x10cm squares and made three bags for 1,5kg of oranges) and tie securely.
Weigh the oranges and write down the weight.
You’ll need
orange weight x 1,8 = water weight in kg.
Place the orange slices, water and muslin bags in a large plastic bowl, cover and refrigerate for 24h
Boil the mixture for an hour and transfer back into the bowl. Let in a cool place for another 24h.
Weigh the mixture and write down the weight.
You’ll need
mixture weight x 1,2 = sugar weight in kg.
Ok it sounds a lot, but hey, you’re making jam out of
bitter oranges.
Discard the pips bags and mix in the sugar.
Boil for an hour and pour into sterilized jars.
Allow to set at room temperature. Close the jars and keep in a cool place.
Labels: favourites, jams and preserves, recipe inside
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Smooth and grainy - Le paradoxe de la confiture de châtaigne à la vanille
[Smooth and grainy - The paradox of chesnut and vanilla jam]
Some weeks ago I decided to have a ‘jam-making’ weekend to celebrate my new cookbook from Christine Ferber.
I had heard lots of positive reviews about
Mes confitures and couldn’t resist getting my hands at it.
Thus I randomly picked three recipes – all very vanilla-ish:
-
confiture de châtaigne à la vanille [chesnut and vanilla jam]
-
confiture de potimarron à la vanille [pumpkin and vanilla jam]
-
confiture de tomate rouge à la vanille [tomato and vanilla jam]
Les châtaignesI love chestnuts and their earthy smell.
They remind me of
Christmas; especially of fairs where you would get piping hot chestnuts served in newspaper cones.
And while I’m on a confessional mood I should tell you that
I am a severe crème de marron addict.
I can eat it straight from the pot – with a spoon.
Confiture de châtaigne à la vanilleI first thought it was supposed to be like a spread but after having read the recipe twice, I notice Christine doesn't call for a food mill. She just say 'crush any big bits with a wooden spoon'.
I find it quite original - chunky crème de marron.
Hence I was slightly disappointed when a lovely lady from Christine Ferber’s shop in Alsace told me it was a smooth jam.
I had had high expectations about a deconstructed crème de marron.
Anyway, it didn’t stop me from boiling the chestnuts and peeling them.
It actually took a lot of time and nerve to peel the chestnuts. I burnt my finger almost a billion times resulting in my poor thumbs being really sore and red!
Hopefully the nearly ready jam will ease my pain. Comfort food, they call it!
Indeed I wasn’t disappointed: the jam turned out as excellent as I expected it to be.
Sweet, but not overly so.
A perfect texture - smooth and grainy, but in a good way.
A delicious nutty taste you don’t get in bought-crème de marron (even the Faugier one).Confiture de châtaigne à la vanille
1,2 kg chestnuts (= 800g peeled chestnuts)
1kg sugar (fanny: 800g would be enough)
400ml water (fanny: I had to add another 400ml of water)
1 vanilla pod
Start by cutting a little ‘x’ on each chestnut, add them to boiling water and boil them for 3 minutes.
Peel them; while you’re doing it don’t think about the pain but about the luscious jam you’re making (it really helps).
In a large pan, mix the peeled chestnuts, sugar water and seeds from the vanilla pod. Bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes or until the chestnuts are tender.
Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next morning, put the mixture back into a pan and bring to the boil stirring continuously.
Pass through a food mill and cook the resulting smooth paste on low heat for 10 minutes.
Ladle the jam into sterilized jars immediately and seal.
Labels: jams and preserves, recipe inside
Friday, October 14, 2005
My dad's sun-dried chanterelles
Drying in the sun of the Cote D'Azur...
Chanterelles are one of those autumn goods you never have enough of. They're golden and ebony delicate mushrooms with a great perfume.
Last tuesday, my dad went in the
arrière pays and picked a lot of mushrooms :
sanguins and
chanterelles.
The sanguins are very good pickled and then stored, covered with oil, in a airtight jar for at least 3 weeks. Concerning the chanterelles, you can either freeze them or as my dad, dry them. I admit it takes a long time to sundry them, but frankly you've got nothing to do bar puting all the beautiful mushrooms on a double layer of brown paper.
Sun-dried chanterellesPlace the chanterelles (no need to brush them as when they'll dry, the earth will fall off them) on a double layer of brown paper.
And place all that in the sun every morning : they'll dry in 2-3 days.
If you haven't got time or sun : turn on your oven to the lowest temperature and dry the chanterelles -placed in a baking tray- for a night. The next morning your chanterelles will be nicely dried and concentrated in flavour and you kitchen will smell like a mountain cottage.
The sun-dried chanterelles waiting in their jar to be eaten...
Labels: garden and campagne, jams and preserves