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Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Macaron Plénitude - or using one of the most beautiful book: PH10 Patisserie Pierre Herme

Do you remember my attempt at winning the most beautiful cookbook of all the time?
I didn't win, that's a fact, but getting this peculiar book has been on the top of my to-buy-list since this day.
Anyway, I had a good time creating Divine Cannelle and have been very flattered to see it ending up among the five finalists.

But after weeks and weeks of deep-thinking, I decided I should go for the book; whatever the price tag shows up.
The (expensive) book is called PH10 in honour of the ten-year long work of one of the greatest pâtisserie chef: Pierre Herme.

In this book, Pierre Hermé reveals the recipes for all his magnificent creations such as the famous Ispahan (flavours: rose, letchi and raspberry) or the celebrated Mogador (flavours: milk chocolate, passion fruit, pineapple, spices).

Actually "ouvrir PH10 c'est un peu comme etre soudain en possession d'un vieux grimoire revelant la formule magique du bonheur" [opening PH10 is like being in possession of an ancient grimoire that gives us the jinx for happiness].
And indeed this is true; when you immerse yourself in that 600 pages book you realise how much work and love as been put into it. 300 recipes, 200 (lovely) pictures.
I love the professional layout and the useful "composition" of the pastry.

Besides that, I can only admire Pierre Herme: his ability, his creativity and his deep love for the beautiful.
I love the way he created "collections" of pastries; I mean you can find your favourite pastry in various forms: entremets, chocolates, small cake, tarts, ice creams, macarons, confiseries…

I think he really brings out the glorious nature of patisserie.

The first recipe I tried from this book was the Macarons Plenitude as I didn't have much time to make a complexe entremets and because I had all the ingredients in my cupboards.

These macarons are delicious. The slightly salted ganache really enhance the delicate chocolate flavour.
From top:
- chocolate macaron
- eclats de chocolat à la fleur de sel [finely chopped fleur de sel-flavoured chocolate]
- chocolate and caramel ganache
- caramel macaron

How to make them?

First you've got to make the fleur de sel (a slightly coarse salt with a delicate taste) chocolate "eclats".
So what you do is basically – temper the chocolate (70% solid cocoa = Guarana) and make a thin layer of chocolate on which you sprinkle some fleur de sel.

Then comes the ganache; which is maybe my favourite part of the game. This delicious ganache is composed of a:
- toffee-ish caramel made by adding salted butter (here Pierre Hermé suggests La Viette Demi-Sel butter) and cream.
- melted chocolates (56% solid cocoa = Caraque, 40% solid cocoa = Jivara).
This ganache is so luscious I used the leftover to make one of the most delightful truffles I've ever managed to produce.

Finally, you've got to make the macaron biscuits.
These are made by mixing a meringue italienne [Italian meringue] and a "tant-pour-tant" (a mix of equal quantities of almond powder and icing sugar) + fresh egg whites.
Adding melted chocolate (for the chocolate macarons).
Actually my mix was still too liquid (but neatly better that the last time I tried to make macarons) but I think it was because my syrup was hot enough (it must reach 117 C) and I didn't have a good thermometer to check that.
I will go to my, now, favourite shop in Cannes where it will be a doodle to find such a thermometer.
My other problem is that I baked the second batch for too long which resulted in crispy-rather-than-chewy-but-still-delicious macarons. So I will suggest respecting the cooking times next time!

Labels: chocolate, cookbooks, favourites, macarons, pierre hermé

sweet link | posted by *fanny* at 20:37

12 sweets:

Anonymous said something sweet:: tu nous gâtes avec la première recette de PH10 et j'attend avec impatience les créations que tu vas imaginer grace au livre; 07 March, 2006 21:24
Anonymous said something sweet:: Well done Fanny!!! I am curious about the book, but will have to wait to be in France to check it out! So what would you say it is as opposed to others of his books? I have Plaisirs Sucres.

I look forward to seeing what else you will make. Funny as I am myself in the middle of making one of his desserts! ;-); 07 March, 2006 22:54
Anonymous said something sweet:: Fanny,
Beautiful macaroons. Liked that steak sandwich too. You always impress. (Got your note at 101cookbooks, thanks). You should feel priveliged owning such an extraordinary book...600 pages!...200 photos! Us Americans who don't read French, will have to wait a year or two for the book...., but thanks for teasing us with it...vici; 08 March, 2006 03:26
Anonymous said something sweet:: Merci pour ce billet instructif !
J'hésite depuis un moment d'acheter le PH10 - mais je pense que - grâce à ton billet- je vais sauter le pas !; 08 March, 2006 08:24
sooishi said something sweet:: Très très jolis macarons!
bravo :-)
Moi aussi je me réjouis de voir la suite!; 08 March, 2006 09:20
Sandra Le Petrin said something sweet:: Wow, Fanny, you're so lucky!! I would love to have this fabulous "grimoire" but it's definitely too expensive for me! J'ai hâte de voir ce que tu vas préparer: si c'est à la hauteur de ta "Divine Cannelle" (pour laquelle j'avais eu un coup de coeur), ça promet!!; 08 March, 2006 10:58
Papilles et Pupilles said something sweet:: magnifique ! c'est aussi trop cher pour moi mais je regarde avec admiration tes réalisations ! magnifique !; 08 March, 2006 13:31
Anonymous said something sweet:: Alors je peux en parler en vrai , puisque j'ai eu la chance de le gagner ! c'est un très beau livre et le truc super, c'est que l'on peut à partir de chaque composition décider de créer la sienne ! en mélangeant des recettes de base !
Fanny, pour la meringue italienne même si tu es à 110° ou 111° degrés ça marche très bien aussi, mais il est vrai qu'un thermo sonde c'est très pratique ! Bon ceci dit tout est vraiment technique dans ce livre et il y a quand même les petites plus qui ne sont pas révélés, normal ! Cher mais une bible quand même !
Ah oui tes macarons sont très beaux!; 08 March, 2006 14:44
Unknown said something sweet:: ces macarons on l'air delicieux ! pour une fana de chocolat et de patisseries, c'est un regal pour les yeux, et je pense pour la bouche aussi !
bravo !; 08 March, 2006 15:42
Valentina said something sweet:: They are divine. Reading your post make me feel like having a go myself. Congratulations on another beautiful post and work.; 08 March, 2006 20:00
*fanny* said something sweet:: Hi Anne - merci pour le commntaire. Moi aussi j'ai hate de continuer a explorer ce magnifiqu livre.

Hi Bea - this book is just fantastic; not only it gives all the recipes for every single PH creations but it's also a mone for inspiration. From this point of view we could say it's not so much different from others PH books, but i don't know, ot seems so precious!

Hi Vici, i hope the book will be translated quickly.

Hi Anne - saute le pas. Moi aussi j'hesitais un peu a cause du prix, mais sincrement je ne suis pas decue du tout.

Hi Ooishigal - merci beaucoup.

Hi Avital - d'abord merci pour Divine Cannelle ca me fait tres plasir. Pour le livre, c'est pas grave si'il est trop cher, j'essayerais de t'en faire profiter le plus possible via FOOD BEAM.

Hi Papille - merci beaucoup d'etre pasée sur mon blog.

Hi mercotte - merci pour le conseil. Mais je comprends vraiment pas pourquoi ma meringue italienne était trop liquide alors. Bon je crois que je vais devoir prendre des cours de macarons chez Lenotre.

Hi Milie - tout simplement merci beaucoup.

Hi Valentina - thanx for dropping by and for your nice word. I'm vry happy you're feeling like having a go yourself - as that's the way i wanted it to be!

Thank you so much for all your lovely comments.
Fanny; 09 March, 2006 12:53
La Cuisine d'Helene said something sweet:: Bonjour,

J'ai beaucoup aimé ta recette et ta photo. Comment as-tu pris la photo? Quel appareil as-tu utilisé?

Merci.; 25 April, 2006 19:28