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Saturday, December 16, 2006
Un trésor de pâtisserie - La Bonbonnière by Enri Lopez

[A treasured pâtisserie - La Bonbonnière by Enri Lopez]

Corsica

Toulouse is a lovely city with hundreds of tiny streets you discover one day after another.
It’s like walking in a labyrinthe [labyrinth].

Last year, as I was discovering the hidden treasures my new student hometown, I spotted a lovely boutique which had the most beautiful and attractive front-window you could ever dream of – colourful, elegant and very delicious.
To tell the truth, the real thing that caught my eyes was a gigantic macarons croquenbouche.
I had to enter. And I did.

I will always remember that day. There were so many different patisseries I stayed in the shop - unsure about what to choose – for more than half an hour.
From that special day, I’ve been visiting La Bonbonnière every other week and always have a nice talk with the lovely lady that sells heaven in a box.


Corsica

This is a ‘Christmas special’. Every year, from November, the pastry chef makes this delicate entremet:
- mousse aux marrons avec des éclats de marron confits [chestnut mousse with candied chestnut chunks]
- bavaroise au whisky [whisky bavaroise]
- dacquoise aux amandes [almond dacquoise]


Macarons à la vanille

These macarons have a fine vanilla flavour and are speckled with loads of vanilla seeds from Mexico.


Gauguin

This is the first entremet I tried from La Bonbonnière and I am SO in love with it.
It might be the nostalgia of the first bite or the delicious combination of Manjari milk chocolate and cinnamon, but Gauguin embodies paradise – if paradise there is.


Provence

I was first attracted by this entremet because of its beauty. Imagine a shiny white glaze freckled with vanilla seeds.
Inside that stunning carapace sit:
- almond bavaroise
- diced pear
- pear bavaroise
- almond dacquoise

La Bonbonnière
41 r Tourneurs
31000 Toulouse
Tel.: 00 335 61 21 66 04


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Wednesday, June 28, 2006
La vie en rose - Macarons à la rose de Pierre Hermé

[Life in pink - Pierre Hermé's Rose macarons]

I think one of the best secrets for incredible food is bright and eye-catching colours; at least in the patisserie realm.
You're not so sure?
Check Ladurée's religieuse, Fauchon's éclairs or Hermé's truffles. Don't they look yummy?


I do love black and white photos but I believe that colour photography enhances the deliciousness of food.
However some people can even make food look scrumptious in b&w.
But to tell the truth, when I look at black and white food pictures, my eyes do their best to retrieve the colours.
Though, it seems that simple objects (like vegetables or fruits) benefits from black and white; in contrast elaborated dishes can't go without colour (at least in my mind). I'm afraid to say that even if this quiche looks mouth-watering, a colour picture would have made it twice as good.

There is something I particularly fancy about colour in food: when the colour leads your senses somewhere the taste definitely isn't. Imagine a red religieuse. You think strawberry. I say tomato. Another good example is the crème brûlée I recently made. Green! You think Matcha. I say Guimauve.
Here are the consequences of the trendy cuisine.
But sometimes it can be a disappointment; the reality being far from what you expected.
That's why I have to admit I also like colours to be more classic: chocolate brown for chocolat or purple for violette.

I love to describe a colour tone by adding a food adjective (like pistache for pistachio green) because it shows how much food and colour are related.
One of the best example remains rose.
Rose is both a colour [pink] and a flower [rose].

You might have noticed I am a big pink lover: from life in general to food (one of my pictures was even said to have an Alice in Wonderland look).
So when I saw this recipe for Rose Macarons in my favourite Pâtisserie cookbook, I had to make it.

Macarons à la rose
Macarons are quite tricky. When making them you should really take care to the following few points:
1. Blitz in a food processor the almonds and icing sugar for a good minute.
2. Sieve the almond/icing sugar powder twice.
3. Bring the syrup (used for the Italian meringue) to at least 120°C.
4. Continue whisking the meringue until it's almost cold.
5. Watch the oven temperature – too hot and the macarons will crack (I recommend 160°C).
I followed all these steps and after two disasters, I finally came up with my almost perfect macarons.
You should have seen me, jumping, shouting and singing in the kitchen. Anyway it's been one of the best food moments of my life.

These macarons are luscious. I love the combination of almond and rose, filling the house and hearts with a delicious Mediterranean scent.


I didn't have any rose syrup and essence on hand so I used a 50g of
Confit de Rose instead.
A great add-on would be to sprinkle the ganache with bits of Rose Nougat.


Macarons à la rose
makes 500g

for la crème à la rose
100g couverture white chocolate, melted
100g double cream
10g rose syrup
1g rose essence

Bring the cream to the boil and mix in the melted white chocolate, rose syrup and essence.
Pour the mixture into an airtight tin and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

for le tant-pour-tant
125g almond powder
125g icing sugar

Blitz in a food processor and sieve.

for le macaron à la rose
125g caster sugar
31g water
47g "aged" egg whites
pink food colouring (fanny: I felt I was cheating here but I do so wanted to get the Alice in Wonderland look)
250g tant-pour-tant
43g fresh egg whites

Preheat the oven to 160°C.
In a sauce pan, put the sugar and water and bring to 120°C.
When the syrup reaches 114°C, start whisking the aged egg whites and when the syrup is ready (=120°C), pour it over the egg whites and continu whisking until cold.
The meringue should be thick and glossy.
Add the food colouring until it reaches the colour you want (fanny: I find that once baked, the macarons were paler, so if you want a brighter colour you should add a little extra food colouring).
Mix in the tant-pour-tant and the fresh egg whites.
The mixture should be still firm, but softer and very glossy.
Pipe the batter small rounds (2cm) onto a lined baking sheet and bake for 9 minutes (oven door maintained open with a wooden spoon).
Let cool for 2 minutes then carefully detach the macarons from the baking mat and set aside.
Continue until there is no mixture left.

for le montage des macarons
Pair the macarons of the same size and pipe the ganache onto one the macarons.
Sandwich and refrigerate for at least 24h before eating.

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Tuesday, March 07, 2006
Macaron Plénitude - or using one of the most beautiful book: PH10 Patisserie Pierre Herme


Do you remember my attempt at winning the most beautiful cookbook of all the time?
I didn't win, that's a fact, but getting this peculiar book has been on the top of my to-buy-list since this day.
Anyway, I had a good time creating Divine Cannelle and have been very flattered to see it ending up among the five finalists.


But after weeks and weeks of deep-thinking, I decided I should go for the book; whatever the price tag shows up.
The (expensive) book is called PH10 in honour of the ten-year long work of one of the greatest pâtisserie chef: Pierre Herme.

In this book, Pierre Hermé reveals the recipes for all his magnificent creations such as the famous Ispahan (flavours: rose, letchi and raspberry) or the celebrated Mogador (flavours: milk chocolate, passion fruit, pineapple, spices).

Actually "ouvrir PH10 c'est un peu comme etre soudain en possession d'un vieux grimoire revelant la formule magique du bonheur" [opening PH10 is like being in possession of an ancient grimoire that gives us the jinx for happiness].
And indeed this is true; when you immerse yourself in that 600 pages book you realise how much work and love as been put into it. 300 recipes, 200 (lovely) pictures.
I love the professional layout and the useful "composition" of the pastry.


Besides that, I can only admire Pierre Herme: his ability, his creativity and his deep love for the beautiful.
I love the way he created "collections" of pastries; I mean you can find your favourite pastry in various forms: entremets, chocolates, small cake, tarts, ice creams, macarons, confiseries…


I think he really brings out the glorious nature of patisserie.


The first recipe I tried from this book was the Macarons Plenitude as I didn't have much time to make a complexe entremets and because I had all the ingredients in my cupboards.

These macarons are delicious. The slightly salted ganache really enhance the delicate chocolate flavour.
From top:
- chocolate macaron
- eclats de chocolat à la fleur de sel [finely chopped fleur de sel-flavoured chocolate]
- chocolate and caramel ganache
- caramel macaron



How to make them?

First you've got to make the fleur de sel (a slightly coarse salt with a delicate taste) chocolate "eclats".
So what you do is basically – temper the chocolate (70% solid cocoa = Guarana) and make a thin layer of chocolate on which you sprinkle some fleur de sel.

Then comes the ganache; which is maybe my favourite part of the game. This delicious ganache is composed of a:
- toffee-ish caramel made by adding salted butter (here Pierre Hermé suggests La Viette Demi-Sel butter) and cream.
- melted chocolates (56% solid cocoa = Caraque, 40% solid cocoa = Jivara).
This ganache is so luscious I used the leftover to make one of the most delightful truffles I've ever managed to produce.

Finally, you've got to make the macaron biscuits.
These are made by mixing a meringue italienne [Italian meringue] and a "tant-pour-tant" (a mix of equal quantities of almond powder and icing sugar) + fresh egg whites.
Adding melted chocolate (for the chocolate macarons).
Actually my mix was still too liquid (but neatly better that the last time I tried to make macarons) but I think it was because my syrup was hot enough (it must reach 117 C) and I didn't have a good thermometer to check that.
I will go to my, now, favourite shop in Cannes where it will be a doodle to find such a thermometer.
My other problem is that I baked the second batch for too long which resulted in crispy-rather-than-chewy-but-still-delicious macarons. So I will suggest respecting the cooking times next time!


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